Comparison of antiaging, anti-melanogenesis effects, and active components of Raspberry (Rubus occidentalis L.) extracts according to maturity

In this study, we carried out a comparative evaluation of antiaging and anti-melanogenesis activities of raspberry extracts (Rubus occidentalis L.) according to their stage of ripening (uRo: unripe raspberry, Ro: ripe raspberry), and analyzed the active component (ellagic acid) present in these extracts. Our results showed higher inhibitory effects of the uRo extract in terms of elastase and collagenase activities than Ro extract. In the CCD-986sk cells, uRo extract significantly inhibited MMP-1 activity by 18% and increased the rate of type 1 pro-collagen synthesis by 25%. Besides, treatment with uRo extract significantly inhibited α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Overall, uRo was a more potent mediator of antiaging and anti-melanogenesis effects than Ro extract. Further analysis showed that the functional effects of uRo could be attributed to its 18.5 times higher ellagic acid content than that in Ro extract. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: This study reported the differential effect of the raspberry extracts depending on their stage of ripening. To the best of our knowledge, this was the first study to report the antiaging, anti-wrinkle, and anti-pigmentation effects of the uRo extracts. We showed that the extracts from the uRo have an overall better antiaging and skin-whitening effect than ripe ones. The effects were attributed to high ellagic acid content in uRo. We believed that our study makes a significant contribution to the literature because the outcome of the study has both, cosmetic as well as therapeutic implications.

Keywords: Rubus occidentalis L.; anti-aging; anti-melanogenesis; ellagic acid; ripening.