Cotton honeydew (Gossypium hirsutum L.) extract offers very interesting properties for hair cosmetics and care products.

Cotton honeydew extract is composed of a unique combination of oligosaccharides, including fructose, glucose, inositol, melezitose, saccharose, trehalose and trehalulose. Studies have shown that these oligosaccharides exhibit a protective effect. Therefore, we were interested in studying the effect of these oligosaccharides on normal and damaged human hair. Both clinical and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) studies were performed. Standardized human hair samples were used to determine the effect of a rinse-off mask with 1% cotton honeydew extract on the ultrastructure of hair. In addition, hair samples were submitted to different aggressions, following various experimental protocols. SEM showed that, without extra aggression, the cuticle scales appeared to lie more smoothly in the hair in cotton honeydew extract-treated samples than in untreated samples. The extract-treated hair samples were also less prone to chipping. In contrast, the control, untreated hair samples retained a dry and damaged appearance and were prone to chipping and progressive splitting. In a clinical study, 15 volunteers had half of their hair treated with a formula with 1% honeydew extract and the other half was left untreated as a control. Pictures and visual evaluation of the hair showed that the honeydew extract formula left the hair with a smoothness that was far superior to the control side and this result was confirmed by SEM. In addition, mRNA studies on epidermal cells were performed and confirmed the stimulating effect of honeydew extract on keratin synthesis. These results demonstrate that cotton honeydew extract can be of great use in hair care products and cosmetics.